Destination: Brasília, Brazil
Brasília, Like a Local
Ah, Brasília! The underrated capital of Brazil. As of 2024, nearly five million Brazilians (and other country nationals) call Brasilia home. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Brasilia is renowned for the radical, artistic design of its footprint (likened to an airplane or a bird, with apartment and commercial buildings built on its “wings”) and its funky, architectural style (think 1960s Soviet futuristic combined with midcentury modern).
I lived and worked in Brasília from 2004-2006, and fell in love with the easygoing, friendly nature of the Brazilian people and their culture. In Brazil, I learned that, yes, you can work hard- but you also should take every opportunity to have fun and enjoy life as well! I loved it so much that I kept coming back over the years, and eventually bought a condo in the hip Southwest sector of town!
Why visit Brasília?
- Unique, 60s-style modern architecture; distinctive layout of apartment blocks next to commercial blocks, creating neighborhood clusters or superblocks (called “superquadras” in Portuguese). You can read more about their design here.
- Relatively inexpensive destination for Americans (exchange rate of USD to the Brazilian Real hovers around 5:1)
- Delicious food and interesting restaurants
- Fantastic shopping
- Laid-back nightlife
- Warm weather almost year-round
- Weekend markets with artisan-made goods
- Full of lush greenery and abounding in places for outdoor exercise
- One of the safest big cities to visit in Brazil
Who should visit Brasília?
- Architecture and design lovers
- Frugal travelers
- Luxe travelers
- Spa aficionados
- Shoppers
- History and political science buffs
- Medical tourists
Sightseeing in Brasília
Good news for all of you folks like me who love to travel “off the beaten path”: Brasília is a great choice for anyone looking for an under-the-radar place to visit! Brasília is not known as a major tourist destination, and still remains one of the world’s hidden gems- which is surprising, given that it is a world capital!
As the capital city of Brazil, all of the major government buildings are found here, including the presidential offices, congressional buildings, government ministries, and federal court buildings. Additionally, there are spectacular cultural landmarks to see- all of which are architectural marvels, designed by the great Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer. The best part is that most of these buildings are fairly close to one another, on one giant street known as the Monumental Axis (“Eixo Monumental“)- and almost all are free to visit!
Here are the top places to visit on the Monumental Axis (listed in order of “must-sees”):
1. Cathedral of Brasilia
- Cathedral of Brasília (Catedral Metropolitana de Brasília) – A Roman Catholic cathedral designed by Oscar Niemeyer and completed in 1970. Famous for its stunning stained glass roof – which is at ground level, since the cathedral itself is mostly underground. Visiting hours (outside of official mass) are:
- Tuesday to Friday: from 8:00 am to 4:45 pm
- Saturday: from 8:00 am to 4:45 pm
- Sunday: from 9:00 am to 5:45 pm (outside of mass times)
2. Planalto Palace
- Planalto Palace (Palácio do Planalto) – Planalto Palace is the official office of the president of Brazil. Since its inaguration in 1960, this palace has been the workplace of every Brazilian president. The Palace is open to the public only on Sundays, from 9:30 am to 2 pm, and visits must be reserved online. *Note: this is not to be confused with the presidential residence, the Alvorado Palace, which is located on Paranoa Lake.
3. National Congress
- National Congress (Congresso Nacional) – The National Congress is where the two halves of Brazil’s legislative branch meet to pass legislation. The dome (downward facing bowl) marks the Senate’s chamber and the upward facing bowl is home to the Chamber of Deputies. The two towers in between are office towers. Tours are offered on Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays, as well as weekends and Brazilian public holidays. Weekday tours in languages other than Portuguese must be booked online and can be booked up until 5 p.m. of the previous day.
4. JK Memorial
- JK Memorial (Memorial JK) – The JK Memorial is a museum, memorial and mausoleum for the former president and founder of Brasília, Juscelino Kubitschek. It is a great one-stop-shop for anyone interested in learning all about the history of the city of Brasília (which is really quite interesting). Hours: Tues-Sun, 9am-6pm. Entry fee is R$5-$10.
5. TV Tower
- TV Tower (Torre de TV) – While the TV Tower is itself just that (a radio and television transmission tower), the main reason to visit the TV Tower is to shop at the weekend market (Feira da Torre de TV), where you can find all sorts of artisanal goods from clothing and artwork to baskets and jewelry made from a Brazilian grass called “capim” to clay statues of patron saints and figures from the Brazilian northeast. Pro Tip: While the market is technically open from Thursday to Sunday, Saturday is the best day to go as most of the stall owners will be operating (and note that going towards the end of the day should score you the best deals). Hours: Thurs- Sat 9-6, Sun 9-5.
Other noteworthy places on the Monumental Axis to be aware of include:
- National Museum of the Republic (Museu Nacional da República) – This space-age looking dome can be quite hit-or-miss, given that it hosts temporary art exhibits that are often interesting, but surprisingly it does not have a standing collection. Be sure to check out what exhibits will be there before planning a visit. Free entry Tues-Sun 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
- Itamaraty Palace (Palácio Itamaraty) – The Itamaraty Palace is the headquarters of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It is a beautiful building constructed with only Brazilian materials, and is decorated with works by famous Brazilian artists. Unfortunately, it is currently closed to non-official visitors.
- Supreme Federal Court (Supremo Tribunal Federal) – Brazil’s Supreme Court. It is the highest court of law in Brazil for constitutional issues. It is not open to non-official visitors.
- Ministries Esplanade (Esplanada dos Ministérios) – These are the official government buildings that are lined up in parallel rows on either side of the Monumental Axis. They are interesting to drive by, but not places to tour.
- The National Library (Biblioteca Nacional de Brasília)– the outside architecture of the library is worth a look (and easy to see up close if you are visiting the National Museum next door) but the inside is not particularly exciting.
- Tancredo Neves Pantheon of the Fatherland and Freedom (Panteão da Pátria e da Liberdade Tancredo Neves) – This is an outdoor memorial dedicated to the honor of national heroes. It is another Niemeyer design, and is shaped like a modernist interpretation of a dove.
- Palace of Justice (Palácio da Justiça) – Home to the Justice Department, the most interesting feature of this building is the many waterfalls on the building’s facade. It is not open to non-official visitors.
After you’ve visited the sites you’re interested in on the Monumental Axis, here are other top places to check out across the rest of the city:
- Paranoá Lake (Lago Paranoá) – Paranoá Lake is a gorgeous artificial lake with a 50 mile circumference in the center of Brasília. Three bridges cross the lake, the most beautiful of which is the the JK Bridge. Great views of the lake without having to enter it can be found while dining at restaurants in the Pontão entertainment center. For water enthusiasts, you can book boat trips on the lake, or enjoy watersports such as kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Pro tip: Many Brazilians belong to large social clubs that border the lake, and if you have a local friend who is a member of one, this can be a great way to spend the day.
- City Park Sarah Kubitschek (Parque da Cidade) – This city park is one of the largest in the world. It is the perfect place to go for a walk, run, or bike ride, and is a local mecca for outdoor exercisers. Pro tip: Join the locals at the City Park for a morning walk or run, then finish with a fresh ice-cold coconut water in its shell from a stall when you’re ready to cool-down!
- Alvorada Palace/Presidential Palace (Palácio da Alvorada) – This is the building where all Brazilian presidents have lived since Brasília was built. Unfortunately, public tours have been temporarily suspended. However the building’s exterior is pretty spectacular.
- Original Superquadra – 308 Sul – If you want to see the first residential/commercial superblock built in Brasília, it’s at 308 South. It’s worth a visit, as there are plaques describing the buildings’ design and history, and their original design and tilework has been preserved. If you’re on the fence, try reading this amazing multimedia description about it here.
- JK Bridge (Ponte JK) – Beautiful bridge with three steel and concrete arches connecting the Monumental Axis to the South Lake neighborhood (where many single-family homes, embassies and high-end restaurants are found) by crossing the Paranoá Lake.
- National Park of Brasília (Parque Nacional de Brasília) – A large park on the outskirts of the city, with walking trails and natural swim areas. Because of its large number of springs, it’s also called Agua Mineral (mineral water); the water is reported to have healing properties. Pro Tip: This park is best visited if you plan to spend the bulk of the day here; the City Park is a better destination for a short workout. Open daily from 8am-4pm; closed some holidays. Cost: R$13 for persons 12 and older.
- Brasília Botanical Garden (Jardim Botanico de Brasília) – A nice outdoor sanctuary for native flora and fauna. Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm. Tickets are R$5.
- Eyes of Water Park (Parque Olhos de Agua) – A nice park venue with shaded trails for walking & jogging, a lake, play areas, and bird watching. Open daily 5:30am-9pm. Free.
- Brasília Zoo (Zoológico de Brasília) – City zoo featuring a variety of birds, reptiles and mammals. Open Tues-Sun 8:30am-5pm.
Shopping in Brasília
Brasília is one of my FAVORITE places in the world to shop! From gorgeous, sensual clothing and high quality leather footwear, to delicious artisanal food products and indigenous crafts, Brasília has something for everyone’s tastes!
Brasília has several wonderful shopping malls, and most carry the same national brands, though size of store and in-stock options can vary. The fancier shopping malls are Iguatemi (in the North Lake neighborhood) and ParkShopping (in Guará, near the Southwest sector). The more central shopping malls that are also exceptional are Brasília Shopping (my favorite of the Brasília Osklen stores is here!), Patio Brasil and Conjunto National (less fancy, and probably the most frequented by locals of all backgrounds). Top Brazilian brands that locals typically wear include:
- Osklen (Rio-based fashion brand, known for their original cuts/shapes and excellent fabrics. Great men and women’s clothing and shoes- all made in Brazil!).
- Colcci (trendy, quality clothes)
- Forum (mainly high end jeans, but I’ve gotten excellent heels from here!)
- Havaianas (yes, Brazilians wear them a LOT- but mainly at the beach and at home, not when they go out)
- Farm Rio (this brand has also made it stateside…but it is SO much cheaper in Brazil!)
- Le Lis Blanc (high-end women’s clothing)
- Arezzo (stylish women’s shoes)
- Schutz (the shoes!!!)
- Cia Maritima (for that trendy Brazilian bikini)
- Hering (for bargain finds, including fun t-shirts and tote bags with Portuguese phrases)
If you are looking for quality souvenirs (what Brazilians call “lembrancas“) from your trip, I highly suggest visiting the Athos Bulcão Foundation (Fundação Athos Bulcão) for a framed print, or a set of mugs, showcasing one of the designer’s famous tile designs found around the city, such as the white and black birds on blue tiles from the city church known as the Our Lady of Fatima Church (Igrejinha Nossa Senhora de Fátima), or the quirky yellow and orange widgets from the Juscelino Kubistchek airport.
For food items, I never return home without filling my suitcase with the following delicacies:
- Nhá Bentas from Kopenhagen (chocolate covered domes, filled with soft marshmallow and also sometimes caramel or passionfruit)
- Assorted homemade Brazilian cookies from the cafe Casa de Biscoitos Mineiros
- Dulce de leite (doce de leite in Portuguese) and jars of other artisanal creamy fruit desserts from a farmer’s market or from the higher end grocery store, Pão de Açúcar
- Tubs of paçoca (soft candy logs made from ground peanuts, sugar and salt) from any grocery store
And for traditional Brazilian handmade items, the best place to go is the TV Tower market. I have purchased many a gift (for myself and others!) here over the years. Some of my favorites have included: earrings, bracelets and baskets woven from golden Brazilian sweetgrass; traditional clay figurines from the Brazilian northwest, hand-embroidered tablecloths and large handmade wooden bowls and serving platters.